The Joseph Nashville Hotel is a luxurious box of original art and thoughtful views. Its gourmet Italian restaurant, Yolan, is a perfect fit. From the minute you walk in off the street or from the hotel, you know you’re not just in any restaurant. The dark walnut tables are inlaid with mother-of-pearl, and a huge copper and blown glass chandelier hangs above the bar. It comes from the private collection of the hotel owner Joel Pizzuti. He was just waiting for the right place to hang it. The walls are lined with a large collection of the restaurant’s wines. Everything signals that you are about to have lunch.

What’s the crowd like?

As you might expect from a restaurant headed by a Michelin-starred chef in the city’s finest luxury hotel, this place attracts a wealthy crowd. Hotel guests, Nashville politicians, celebrities, and longtime locals who are thrilled to have fine Italian cuisine in town. It’s a low-key elegance (not many suits and ties), but still elegance.

What should we drink?

This is a place where you can satisfy your heart’s desire, so choose one of the seasonal cocktails to start or ask the bartender to prepare your favorite. But the centerpiece of your meal should be the wines, mostly Italian, which have been selected by Kathy Mantuano and her catfish and served in handmade Veronese glasses. The tasting menu allows you to defer to Mantuanos to get a curated experience.

The main event: food.

Michelin-starred chef Tony Mantuano spent decades at Spiaggia in Chicago, and after retiring, he was brought in to come to Nashville and open Yolan. His menu includes antipasti, primi and seconds. The menu is small, seasonal and almost flawless. The presentation is exquisite. Mantuano has chosen everything, down to every utensil, so even the weight of the fork in your hand as you spin the pasta is part of the intentional experience. And you should, because Mantuano pasta is legendary. Imagine truffle gnocchi, breaded veal chops, or linguine with clams, squid, and mussels. And don’t sleep on the desserts from pastry chef Noelle Marchetti. She was a James Beard Award semi-finalist and her sweets are on par with Mantuano’s dishes. Choose another day to skip dessert.

How were you treated?

As soon as you walk in, the staff will already know your name and address you appropriately. You’ll have plenty of time to think about your options without being rushed, but not so much that you’re impatient. It’s a place where attention to detail is paid, so take a moment to appreciate its well-organized service.